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  • June 8, 2012.
    Raglan, New Zealand

    About to jump out into the most frigid waters of my life.
    The waves were big, my suit was small, and my feet were bleeding from the rocks.
    Once there was a break between sets, I ran toward water to jump out, but not fast enough.
    I got wrecked. I thought I was going to die.
    I lived. Surfed 3 of my favorite hours ever and could hardly walk for two days.
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