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  • At Angkor I watched the elephants. I had never met an elephant in person (in elephant?) before. When I asked the men who worked them if I could say hello, they said no. I wasn't their kind of traveller.
    My budget for Cambodia was $5 a day, food & lodgings and what was left for travel. It could be done. But I didn't carry money for elephant petting.

    Nights later, I sat up talking late with a boy. He was wandering before becoming an RAF pilot, like his father before him. I don't remember his name, you meet so many if you spend an amount of time on the road. I do remember his face and his spiky, mud brown hair. His earnest courteousness. We talked about pleasing family and living our own lives. Neither of us drank. It was late, 2am.

    Slow and methodical, an elephant ambled round the corner of the dirt road, it loped near to the chairs and tables where we sat.

    I fed him cucumbers. There was no light, save stars. I don't recall even a crescent moon.
    It cost nothing.

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