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  • I walked into the terminal at Benghazi's international airport. There are two lines: one for Libyan nationals, the other for everyone else. The everyone else line wasn't even a line: it was an old wooden desk with an immigration offier sitting behind it. I hand him my passport and he scrutinizes every page. He finds my Libyan visa, then stares at it. Tsk-tsking in disapproval, he takes out a pen and starts crossing something out. I freeze for a moment. He's crossing out the former official name of the country on the visa - a long, rambling name given to Libya by Muammar Gaddafi. Gaddafi's dead, so no more long, rambling name. Instead, the officer writes a single word in Arabic: Libya. "Welcome to Libya," he says.
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