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  • Every village in Hungary seems to come with a cemetery or two. London has lots of them, but even if you live near a cemetery, as I do, it's in a sense remote: I know no-one buried there (as far as I know). Here, in the village, it's personal - and I have been to see the grave of my wife's much-loved grandmother, and to water her flowers.

    I know it's moving, and in a world of phoniness it's real, but I still feel slightly like a tourist. Urban unbeliever that I am, the road snaking past the cemetery to disappear into the landscape speaks more to me of life and death than does the grey cemetery wall that it passes by.
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