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  • The following is an unedited replication of a handwritten diary I kept while traveling through the north of France in September 2005.

    9/6/2005 Tuesday

    Just learned last night that Rehnquist (sp?) died on Saturday, and that Bush wants Roberts to be chief justice. ugh. Breakfast at the hotel…then showered/bathed (they really need to embrace curtains) (for showers)…checked out of the hotel and walked Honfleur…oh…sent a postcard to Karen…looked at chachkies…then it started to rain, so we drove to Deauville…a resort/beach town founded in 1859 by Napoleon’s brother…my first view of the European Atlantic…stunning…right now I’m walking barefoot on the beach of Deauville…Drove quite a ways along the coast, through many narrow streets and picturesque towns…

    now have arrived at the American Cemetery at Omaha Beach…we are officially on U.S. soil (ahh) “This embattled shore, portal of freedom, is forever hallowed by the ideals, the valor and the sacrifices of our fellow countrymen.” unknown graves: “Here rests in honored glory A COMRADE IN ARMS known but to God.”…61 years and 3 months to the day have passed since Allied forces launched the largest military campaign in Earth’s history…tens of thousands died at this spot, now tranquil and serene with the quiet knowledge of what transpired here…I stand now in the waters of Omaha Beach, walking the paths of the dead…and I wonder, do we honor their memory? is this the America they fought, and died, for? best honor their memory, I must believe it is…never forget, never again…

    Memorial Wall of the missing…”Comrades in arms whose resting place is known only to God. Here are recorded the names of Americans who gave their lives in the service of their country and who sleep in unknown graves. This is their memorial, the whole earth their sepulchre.”…
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