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  • My first meal in Tenerife was at a guachinche, Bar Guachinchi El Pino, a make-shift restaurant where the food is homemade and the restaurant is there merely as a way to promote the owner's wine. One of the best places to find them is Los Realejos, where I was staying. Some are now permanent restaurants, albeit rustic, and others you’ll never find unless you’re told about them. We saw lots of signs scrawled on cardboard nailed to trees for the smaller ones. This guachinche was a converted garage and patio, and the food was abundant and cheap.

    My friend and I ordered one of the local guachinche's three meals of the day. Fabada, Conejo Frito and Papas Arrugadas with Red and Green Mojo. Butter bean stew, fried rabbit, and steamed and salted little potatoes in two sauces-red and green. The proud owner, Pedro, showed off his place, taking me into the kitchen and introducing me to his cooking staff - wife and son- and to his waitress - daughter- and to his patrons - locals drinking his wine.

    When we sat back down at our table, he brought us an appetizer: a sausage, Canary style, and lit it with a Bic lighter. The meat flamed and the skin on the sausage began to shrink, causing the meat to slow dance on the plate. It smelled spicy and rich and tasted smooth and creamy, like heaven.
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