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  • 6 yrs of age, Santa Monica State Beach, Life Guard Station 11, Pacific Ocean (the Big Blue)



    Eyes big as saucers
    I am lifted onto a throne of bubbles
    my toes wriggling atop the wave
    seated upon this throne
    I watch the world traverse as I’m gently carried to the waters edge.

    Bubbles popping, exploding, lifting, foamy, swirling and carrying me in a way I will never experience again for as long as I live. No one ever told me that you weren’t suppose to sit on the wave. But I did. The wave carried me like a feather to the shore.

    I could have been tossed topsy turvy, caught in the undertow or slam dunked the first time out. She had lifted me, cradled me and left me sitting with a swimsuit filled with sand and a cherished memory that has held me captive to her beauty ever since. I went looking for dad, “Did you see that? I bodysurfed!”



    Image: Mama California Seal off the Newport Beach Pier.
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